Thursday, July 28, 2011

Makeup School: Foundations 101 Coverages & Finishes

Makeup School: Foundation 101 Coverages and Finishes

Picking a foundation can be so confusing what color? what formula?Now if you know your skin type that's a start! If not you may want to refer to my post about skincare that will help you decide what skin type you are!

Let's say you know your skin type
Now what are your undertones Cool Warm or Neutral?
If you are not sure of your skin tone and need a little help figuring it out before going shopping you may want to look my post Foundation Color Theory.

*If you know your skin type and skin tone the only thing left is to decide is coverage.

Coverage =  the amount of pigment in your foundation
How much of your skin do you want to see through your foundation?

Sheer Coverage- slight coverage almost transparent, you will be enhancing your skin with this formula of foundation
this coverage will blur your minor imperfections and even out your skin

Medium Coverage- this foundation covers most minor imperfections on its own, this type of coverage is most common, the skin still appears natural

Medium to Full Coverage- is a very buildable coverage which means you can apply your foundation in a medium coverage and go back and cover problem areas again making it full coverage in those areas, it offers a natural looking skin with coverage, also if it is stippled it will be full coverage!

Full or Opaque Coverage- you will completely cover your true skin it is the most pigmented foundation, these foundations cover heavy scarring, discolorations,are used in dramatic makeup, or just the Appearance of  Flawless Skin!

Every foundation also has a Finish, a finish in foundation describes the appearance your skin will have once the foundation is set. When reading the descriptions of the different finishes think of paint for your walls, and how its available in Gloss, Semi Gloss, Matte, Satin 

Satin-does not shine but it shimmers best described as a sheen  

Matte- makes your skin powder soft  

Luminous- gives shine almost like an opalescence  

Natural-this is the most common finish,your skin appears to be in its natural state  

Then we have Liquid, Powder, or Cream
You have to decide which one feels the best to you try all 3 types

*Liquid Foundation- is the most popular, it blends easily, and comes in a variety of coverages

*Powder Foundation- can look very natural but has more coverage then liquid and creams

*Creamy Foundation-is very blendable and easily adjusted to any skin type, this type of foundation comes in several different coverages too 

*Mineral Foundations-I consider these powder formula they are not much different than any other foundations, they are typically loose powder foundations, if you are bothered by "Talc" these may be for you, most Mineral Foundations are Talc Free

**Aspiring Makeup Artist's when your building your kit the best foundations to invest in are  medium/buildible coverage, creamy, water based foundations this way you can accommodate all skin types from Oily to Dry and also matching full coverage powder foundations. Look at under Graftobian they have palettes of foundation and its actually reasonably priced to get started with them & you will love the quality of the products!  

**You can tweak your Foundations to make them more suited to your needs

If you have a foundation that is too heavy, or thick mix it with a face moisturizer
Pour a little bit of the foundation out and add your favorite face moisturizer
You will make your foundation like a tinted moisturizer.

If your foundation is too sheer add some concealer to it
this I say if you can squirt the concealer right in your foundation bottle its pretty simple directions, if not I just put a little concealer on my hand and a little foundation next to it and mix it with the brush I intend to apply it with.

Monday, July 25, 2011

Makeup School Foundation Color Theory

How many times have you bought a foundation thinking it matched your skin and you get home and try it expecting flawless results, then it turns a funny color on you? 

Color Theory for Foundations or should I say Skin Tone Color Theory is quite different then color theory for eyeshadow, lipstick, and blush! Learning how to tell whether you are a Warm Cool or Neutral, will save you a lot of frustration & money when buying a foundation. Learning to detect the skin tone of others will greatly improve your makeup application skills if you are an aspiring Makeup Artist!

*Your skin's undertone is the background color of your skin no matter how light or dark your skin is you have an undertone. Our undertones give us that glow in our skin.

When doing this type of color theory, it can be hard for some to see there undertones as they may only be prominent while you have a tan or the absence of one

Sometimes it is so hard to figure out if you are a cool,warm or neutral skin tone! Our undertones can be affected by season, diet, medication, hormonal changes, and chronological aging.
It is very easy to walk up to the makeup counter and pick your color range or intensity but picking wether your a warm or a cool is different

The best thing to do is to get matched at a makeup counter
Bring a compact mirror with you that day and walk outside and look at how the color they picked settled on your skin before you buy it! 

You can challenge the beauty advisor nicely, if you don't think it matches tell her lets try again.    

You can do a stripe test after you have decided on a color range take a foundation color from the warm and the cool and stripe each shade on your jaw line one color will disappear into the skin the other color will stand out.
Then have that foundation applied or put it on your face yourself and walk outside in the daylight!
The sun is a truth teller it will never lie to you it's true light so you will be able to see what your foundation really looks like

Cool Foundations are Blue Red
That doesn't mean you are Red or Blue if your a Cool  but these colors are apart of your skin tone
which is Pink/ Red /Rosy under tones
Most cool skin tones get sun burn
You look better in white rather then a cream color shirt
You may also prefer yourself in silver or platinum jewelry   
You can sometimes see blue veins on your inner wrist

Warm Foundations are Yellow Red
It doesn't mean your skin is Yellow or Red but you have these colors in your skin
You have Olive, Honey, Golden, undertones
You probably tan easily if your a warm skintone
You look best in a cream colored shirt verses a white one
You may find Gold Jewelry compliments your skin tone better than silver or platinum 

Now there's also Neutral skin tones which means you have a nice blend of all of the colors it's not a hopeless search for foundation you can find good Neutral shades at MAC and Graftobian. There are lots makeup brands that sell Neutral foundations but they can turn a grayish color, MAC and Graftobian are foundations that I know for certain are true to color.
*The best way to figure out your a Neutral is if your foundation always turns on you like after having a foundation on for some length of time it turns Yellow Pink or Orange

*Warning if you are shopping MAC foundations they do the opposite of most makeup lines with there foundations there Cool Tone foundations are Yellow based and there Warm Tone Foundations are Red.
If you are familiar with MAC products you may know the foundations aren't named they have letters and numbers
MAC Foundation Labeling

NC= Neutral Cool (Neutral/Yellow tones)
NW= Neutral Warm ( Neutral/Pink tones)
N = Neutral ( Biege tones ranging from light to dark) 
C  =Cool (very yellow)

Saturday, July 23, 2011

Makeup School: Primers 101

There are several types of Primers in cosmetics I will explain them to you!

Lip primers main function is Anti-Feathering so unless you have feathering issues you will only need this if you need to keep lip color/gloss on for several hours! It makes your lip products float on your lips! A great primer for all day lip color is a lip stain under your lipstick or lipgloss

Eyeshadow primers are used to prevent creasing, getting true color from your eyeshadow! We have all used an eyeshadow that has changed in color after it's sits on the skin! Primers help that!
Some use concealer as eyeshadow primer,I use regular eyeshadow primers and mediums.
Mediums are products like MAC Paint Pots, Shadesticks, NYX Jumbo pencils, cream eyeliners these are opaque which means your skin tone and color have no factor in how the shade of your eyeshadow appears this is the best way to get true color

Lash Primers are my favorite they are like mousse for your eyelashes a good lash primer will make any mascara good and you will have the lashes you want fuller thicker lifted longer lash primer is great!

Face primers are used to make your foundation last longer stay out of your pores because foundation should sit on the skin not be melted into pores! If you have oily skin you may find your makeup disappears easily a face primer before foundation will help! If you are going to be outside all day you may want to use a face primer. Are they necessary for all skin types on a daily basis? No

Tip if you are extremely oily theres a little trick that always works to keep foundation flawless for hours take a colorless setting powder and  blend it into your pores before your foundation even better if you use an oil control colorless setting powder!
Explain what primer does
Basically Primer Primes the skin for makeup it gives you a smooth perfect landing for your makeup

Makeup School Primers 101

Makeup School: Skincare 101

*How to pick the right moisturizer?

There are thousands of them all different kinds, its so confusing especially if your a younger woman because, you may not know what you need and you could buy something thats a very good product just not the product for you so the end result is younger woman shy away from skincare! 
For mature woman the cosmetic industry knows that you just want to stop the aging so they put a promise on every bottle that your wrinkles will be reduced by let's say 55% how the hell do they know what a 55% in wrinkle reduction looks like or they promise the APPEARANCE of younger skin! 

 When I worked for Estee Lauder I asked one of my trainers "What I am I supposed to say to customers that want to know why the moisturizer they are spending hundreds on is not really working?" 
 She floored me with the answer, She said "Camille dear we never say that we can get rid of wrinkles, we only claim to reduce the appearance of them" then she went on to say " So your not lying, feel better?" 

My view on skincare is the younger you start the better! You always need an SPF! But buyer beware after you see damage,wrinkles,scars and spots it's already too late and no matter what the cosmetic product promises. You have to either invest in the most expensive skincare to get results or turn to cosmetic procedures. Don't get caught up in skincare because it only treats the first layer of skin (epidermis) to truly make a change in your skin  you have to treat medically! If you are so lucky as to find a repair serum or a magic moisturizer you have to use it forever, because when you stop so do your results! In the long run you spend the same amount of money on procedures as you do skincare!  Dr's are the only ones allowed to treat skin below the epidermis ( or the first layer of skin) to truly affect the appearance of your skin you have to treat from within with diet, exercise, and maybe a Dermatologist, Plastic/ Cosmetic Surgeon,or a Doctor Board Certified in Aesthetic Medicine.
With all that being said I do use skincare it's really Important! 

I use it to...Protect, Prevent and Prepare!

Protect from sun damage
Prevent outward signs of aging
Prepare skin for makeup it makes a big difference
Skincare can temporarily change the APPEARANCE of skin issues or conditions

Here are a few questions I would ask customers at the makeup counters to help them better decide what moisturizer to pick or just to figure out there skin type.

*Do you know what skin type you are?
Dry, Oily,Combo or Sensitive (most people are Combination Skin)
If your not sure then your probably normal, most people with really dry or extremely oily skin usually know!

*After you wash your face what does it feel like?
If it's tight your dry, if you still feel moist your oily, no real change your normal

*How long does your makeup last?
If it wears right off then your skin is probably oily, if it gets scaly looking your dry

*Are you prone to break outs and dry skin?
You are probably drying out the affected area causing the imbalance, the harsh acne treatments or face washes can dry the skin surrounding the blemish drying out the skin which in turn makes your skin produce more oil, its a vicious cycle!

*Best ingredients to look for each skin type
I am not going to promote any brand of skincare so this is a clear lesson giving you real information that can be used with any brand

*Oily Skincare Best Ingredients to look for in your moisturizer
Your skin type is more suited for lotions rather than creams that are heavy and oily also your moisturizer should also be Non-comedogenic and Non-acnegenic
1) Water Based
2) Hyaluronic Acid- it helps skin hold more water
3) Serecite absorbs oil and reduces pore appearance
4) Zinc Oxide anti inflammatory
5) Kaolin Clay prevents oil from messing up your makeup
6) Titantium Dioxide protects your skin

*Dry skin care Best Ingredients to look for in your moisturizer, your skintype is more suited to use heavier moisturizers like creams or petroleum based moisturizers
1) oil for Dry and petrolatum-based for Extremely Dry
2) antioxidants
3) dimethicone

When your dry skin is due to aging use Retoinol products and things with Collagen and Elastin Boosters and thats when a petrolatum based moisturizer may really be need

*Combination Skin, usually takes a Lotion in the Summer months and a Cream in the Winter

 Non-comedogenic and Non-acnegenic
1) Water Based
2) Hydralonic acid

3) Salicylic acid if you have blemishes
* Combination skin may need to be treated for Dryness and Oiliness separately, for instance you may need to address oil on your forehead,nose and chin but dryness on your cheeks and eyes 

*Sensitive Skin your skin is irritated easily, it may be inflamed 
Only about 20% of the population has truly sensitive skin
However over 50% of us think we are Sensitive
*For truly Sensitive Skin Consult a Dermatologist
*Cetaphill Products can be really good on Sensitive Skin
It's best to know that ingredients that don't bother most people will bother you so make sure the products you choose are for Sensitive Skin.

Be careful of Natural Ingredients in moisturizers the word Natural can be deceiving it does mean its any better for you than chemicals. 

How to Apply Skincare

1 Remove your makeup 
2 Wash your face with cleanser
3 Exfoliate ( 2 or 3 times a week) 
4 Corrective Serum ( if you are using one but its not necessary)
5 Moisturizer and Eye cream

Makeup School
How To Apply Skincare 101

* If you are going to do your makeup or some elses after applying skincare  Let the moisturizer absorb into the skin as long as time allows you 5-10mins should work!
* If there is excess moisturizer you can blot it off with a sponge or velour puff

Makeup School Skincare 101

Wednesday, July 20, 2011

What am I doing?

I have had a lot of time to think lately about my YouTube channel, and about the type of videos I have been posting. I thought about so many of you and questions you have asked me and requests you given me! 

I realized that I haven't done what I have wanted to do, I got sidetracked along the way somewhere! 
I started to realize that things were moving in a different direction on YouTube then what I wanted it to, right before everything happened with Mia's friend!  I started to feel like I should of just named my channel  House of Reviews and Giveaways! Not that I don't love to do Giveaways but it was getting out of control and I became a freelance Makeup Artist so I could stop selling products, reviews feel cheesy like selling can sometimes! 

I want to share the things with you guys that I have learned, and be there to answer your questions, help you through situations makeup related or not! I have something different to give to you all and I finally see it clearly! 

When I started here on YouTube I didn't know anything, I just had seen a few of Lauren Luke's  (Pancea81) videos about a year and a half before I ever posted. When I first saw her videos I was so shocked that people would watch someone do there makeup, I said to  Steve (my husband) "thats what I do, I can do that!" He said "I know thats why I showed you this!" 

So you can all imagine my shock when I really entered the YouTube Community! I was so overwhelmed at first with all the love and encouragement from all of you! I didn't know what to expect!
I come from a family of ball busters, smart asses, whatever you want to call it so the insults don't bother me much. 

Its the part of YouTube a viewer may not see its the Reviews, The Faves, The Sponsorships, Affilate Programs, Adsense, Revenue Sharing, Disclaimers, Hackers, Trolls, Haters, Make Believe Celebrities, I mean there's even clicks! Some Guru's...
Oh and Guru everyone's a Guru! Never knew that before YouTube! 

Wikipedia Definition of a Guru
(A guru is one who is regarded as having great knowledge, wisdom, and authority in a certain area, and who uses it to guide others (teacher). Other forms of manifestation of this principle can include parents, school teachers, non-human objects (books) and even one's own intellectual discipline, if the aforementioned are in a guidance role.)

Anyways some Makeup Guru's only talk to select other Makeup Guru's, which is weird to me. I think its weird because I Love to talk to you guys wether you are a video maker, makeup lover, makeup artist, I really don't care who you are, if you are someone who has taken the time to watch my videos, send me a message, subscribe to me how ever you choose to reach out to me I see it as an honor and a privilege to have you in my life and that you let me into yours!

I'm asking you all  to please understand that I couldn't bring myself to post another review video! I want to post valuable content that you all deserve from me! I love you guys You have made this part of my Makeup Career so much fun! Thank you for bringing so much joy to my life! 

Also If you are subscribed to my website you will notice I stripped everything! You will love what I am going to post so please hang in there with me! If you are New here please sub so you don't miss anything!