Saturday, July 23, 2011

Makeup School: Skincare 101

*How to pick the right moisturizer?


There are thousands of them all different kinds, its so confusing especially if your a younger woman because, you may not know what you need and you could buy something thats a very good product just not the product for you so the end result is younger woman shy away from skincare! 
For mature woman the cosmetic industry knows that you just want to stop the aging so they put a promise on every bottle that your wrinkles will be reduced by let's say 55% how the hell do they know what a 55% in wrinkle reduction looks like or they promise the APPEARANCE of younger skin! 


 When I worked for Estee Lauder I asked one of my trainers "What I am I supposed to say to customers that want to know why the moisturizer they are spending hundreds on is not really working?" 
 She floored me with the answer, She said "Camille dear we never say that we can get rid of wrinkles, we only claim to reduce the appearance of them" then she went on to say " So your not lying, feel better?" 


My view on skincare is the younger you start the better! You always need an SPF! But buyer beware after you see damage,wrinkles,scars and spots it's already too late and no matter what the cosmetic product promises. You have to either invest in the most expensive skincare to get results or turn to cosmetic procedures. Don't get caught up in skincare because it only treats the first layer of skin (epidermis) to truly make a change in your skin  you have to treat medically! If you are so lucky as to find a repair serum or a magic moisturizer you have to use it forever, because when you stop so do your results! In the long run you spend the same amount of money on procedures as you do skincare!  Dr's are the only ones allowed to treat skin below the epidermis ( or the first layer of skin) to truly affect the appearance of your skin you have to treat from within with diet, exercise, and maybe a Dermatologist, Plastic/ Cosmetic Surgeon,or a Doctor Board Certified in Aesthetic Medicine.
With all that being said I do use skincare it's really Important! 

I use it to...Protect, Prevent and Prepare!

Protect from sun damage
Prevent outward signs of aging
Prepare skin for makeup it makes a big difference
Skincare can temporarily change the APPEARANCE of skin issues or conditions


Here are a few questions I would ask customers at the makeup counters to help them better decide what moisturizer to pick or just to figure out there skin type.


*Do you know what skin type you are?
Dry, Oily,Combo or Sensitive (most people are Combination Skin)
If your not sure then your probably normal, most people with really dry or extremely oily skin usually know!

*After you wash your face what does it feel like?
If it's tight your dry, if you still feel moist your oily, no real change your normal

*How long does your makeup last?
If it wears right off then your skin is probably oily, if it gets scaly looking your dry

*Are you prone to break outs and dry skin?
You are probably drying out the affected area causing the imbalance, the harsh acne treatments or face washes can dry the skin surrounding the blemish drying out the skin which in turn makes your skin produce more oil, its a vicious cycle!

*Best ingredients to look for each skin type
I am not going to promote any brand of skincare so this is a clear lesson giving you real information that can be used with any brand

*Oily Skincare Best Ingredients to look for in your moisturizer
Your skin type is more suited for lotions rather than creams that are heavy and oily also your moisturizer should also be Non-comedogenic and Non-acnegenic
SPF
1) Water Based
2) Hyaluronic Acid- it helps skin hold more water
3) Serecite absorbs oil and reduces pore appearance
4) Zinc Oxide anti inflammatory
5) Kaolin Clay prevents oil from messing up your makeup
6) Titantium Dioxide protects your skin


*Dry skin care Best Ingredients to look for in your moisturizer, your skintype is more suited to use heavier moisturizers like creams or petroleum based moisturizers
SPF
1) oil for Dry and petrolatum-based for Extremely Dry
2) antioxidants
3) dimethicone

When your dry skin is due to aging use Retoinol products and things with Collagen and Elastin Boosters and thats when a petrolatum based moisturizer may really be need

*Combination Skin, usually takes a Lotion in the Summer months and a Cream in the Winter
SPF 

 Non-comedogenic and Non-acnegenic
1) Water Based
2) Hydralonic acid

3) Salicylic acid if you have blemishes
* Combination skin may need to be treated for Dryness and Oiliness separately, for instance you may need to address oil on your forehead,nose and chin but dryness on your cheeks and eyes 


*Sensitive Skin your skin is irritated easily, it may be inflamed 
Only about 20% of the population has truly sensitive skin
However over 50% of us think we are Sensitive
*For truly Sensitive Skin Consult a Dermatologist
*Cetaphill Products can be really good on Sensitive Skin
It's best to know that ingredients that don't bother most people will bother you so make sure the products you choose are for Sensitive Skin.


Be careful of Natural Ingredients in moisturizers the word Natural can be deceiving it does mean its any better for you than chemicals. 


How to Apply Skincare

1 Remove your makeup 
2 Wash your face with cleanser
3 Exfoliate ( 2 or 3 times a week) 
4 Corrective Serum ( if you are using one but its not necessary)
5 Moisturizer and Eye cream

Video: 
Makeup School
How To Apply Skincare 101





* If you are going to do your makeup or some elses after applying skincare  Let the moisturizer absorb into the skin as long as time allows you 5-10mins should work!
* If there is excess moisturizer you can blot it off with a sponge or velour puff


Video: 
Makeup School Skincare 101



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