Tuesday, August 9, 2011

Makeup School: Concealers 101 Correction Concealer



Corrective Concealers


Correction Concealers come in colors like Orange, Yellow, Purple, Green and Pale Pink


When I first started out in makeup I was AFRAID of these concealers I was like "What is Green Concealer for Halloween?"


If you feel the same way I did you probably think those concealers are useless!
They can be so helpful if you understand them! 


*Corrective Concealer Color Theory 
Corrective concealer color theory is different than foundation,eyeshadow, lipstick, and blush color theory!
If you remember your complimentary colors from My Color Theory Video on YT you may already be familiar with complimentary colors 
We are going to use complimentary colors to make sense of corrective concealer
If your not familiar with Complimentary colors,they are colors that are opposites of each other


*Here's a quick refresher of Complimentary Colors


Red and Green
Blue and Orange 
Yellow and Violet (purple)


*Green Concealer counter acts Redness in the skin like Rosca, Acne and Scars


*Orange Concealer covers blue in the skin like Dark circles and veins


*Yellow Concealer covers purple in the skin like dark circles, bruising, scarring


*Purple Concealer covers yellow in the skin this Usually occurs from some type of illness (jaundice)


*Pale Pink brightens the skin with dull or grayish undertones

Now the reason we use these colors together is that when mixing these complimentary colors on the skin it creates tones of beige and tan (skin tones) therefore canceling out or neutralizing the unwanted discoloration!


For Deep Dark Skin Tones it's best to use  a Neutral Concealer to Correct any unwanted discolorations, you would match your skin tone's intensity, not the skin's undertone. You just want to neutralize the discoloration!


Now you may be wondering how to use Corrective Concealers, no worries I will tell you!  

-make sure the face is clean, moisturized, and primed whether its yours or someone else.

- know what color of concealer you need to use to neutralize the skin issue you are dealing with
(refer back to the top of the page for a guide of the correction concealer colors)

-take the color of corrective concealer needed and apply it in the appropriate area
Choose the best method of application by accessing the area of the skin you will be working on, by that I mean take into consideration the texture and size of what you are covering.

- pick your tool for application here are some of my suggestions

Wet sponge for large areas or a whole face
Small stippling brush for covering large textured areas
Flat shader brush for some under eye area corrections and small areas on the face that need correcting
Small fluffy eyeshadow brush to stipple corrective concealer in small areas ( this is very helpful for textured pimples)
Paddle foundation brush

- apply the concealer and once it is placed and blended,set it with a colorless or translucent powder, the less color the better when setting corrective concealers or any concealers

- everything should be set now, apply the foundation as you would normally right over the area, you should also apply any additional concealers, and set with powder.
Be careful not to disturb the concealer when applying your foundation and any additional concealers

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